When comparing saltwater fish and freshwater fish, there are a number of things to take into account. Let’s start from the beginning and examine where these different species come from.
 
Rivers, ponds, streams and lakes are homes for freshwater fish. On the other hand, saltwater fish come from oceans and seas. The latter doesn’t adapt as well to temperature and chemical changes. They are also collected from their original source rather than from a farming situation) and cost more due to, among other things, shipping.
 
Saltwater inhabitants prefer a bigger tank, usually in the range of thirty to fifty-five gallons. The bigger the tank, the easier it is to maintain a crucial chemical balance needed for these types of species to survive.

As for the amount of fish per tank, there are many different theories with respect to measuring this ratio. A simple one to follow is one fish for every five gallons of saltwater.  Although it is possible to house more fish than this ratio, it is best to stick with this number, especially in new tanks or in aquariums with a minimal filtration system.  A less than adequate filter can cause raised levels of ammonia, phosphates and nitrates, all of which can be extremely bad for your saltwater

Saltwater fish do not react as well as freshwater fish do in overcrowded and chemically imbalanced situations. With respect to the former scenario, overcrowding can bring out the worst in territorial, aggressive fish leading to very unpleasant circumstances. Be careful.

Both freshwater and saltwater fish can be fed safely twice daily. If your food is sinking to the bottom after a minute or so, you’re probably giving your inhabitants too much.
 
Spreading out the length of time (within a feeding) that fish can eat will provide herbivores and carnivores in your tank with the right conditions for maximum nutrition. Interestingly enough, herbivores have a longer digestive track than carnivores. This makes the digestion of algae and its protein extraction a longer process. Carnivores have a shorter digestive tract and a shorter protein extract process than herbivores do.
 
As a final note, fish and invertebrates can live in the same tank.  However, this type of situation does invite many associated problems. Reef fish are beautiful, but some are carnivores that feed on invertebrates or live coral.  Also, diseases, some of which can be very hard to eradicate (like ich) can become a reality in your aquarium. In the case of ich, the cell structures between invertebrates and parasites are similar enough that the effective treatments for ich will also kill the invertebrates.

Both saltwater fish and fresh water fish have their pros and cons. Saltwater tanks look extremely flashy, but they do require more care and attention.

Find out more about saltwater aquariums in your home with our free 12 day email course.

Variety is the spice of life and also a way of fulfilling the nutritional needs of your fishes. Frozen foods, prepared dry foods and live foods are all options.  Marine fish have different food needs based on their classifications which are as such: herbivores, carnivores and omnivores. The first group feed on plant material, the second group eats other fish and the third classification feeds on both plant and animal materials.

If you want to avoid a pollution contributor in your saltwater tank, try not to feed your fish too much. Food that remains in the tank for more than a minute and falls to the bottom makes your tank dirty. However, you will most certainly want to increase your feeding sessions if you find your fish are attacking food like there’s no tomorrow (especially the shy ones that normally take their time during an eating session).

Now that you have a better idea of how to feed your fish, let’s turn our attention to the importance of correct and consistent water temperature, which has a direct effect on your fish’s health and metabolic rate. Remember that your water temperature directly affects your fish’s body temperature, as fish are cold blooded.

It would be great if we could guarantee a home aquarium that’s free from disease at all times. Unfortunately, that outlook is a bit unrealistic. An educated pet owner should know how to look out for signs of disease in a fish tank’s inhabitants.
 
Disease often comes from species that are under stress within your tank and/or from the introduction of new, diseased fish into your aquarium. Quarantining new fish in a separate tank is a wonderful way of ensuring that your new purchase is healthy. If your new fish swims well, has no wounds and seems perfectly fine after a certain amount of time, then pop it into your main aquarium.
 
Stress that leads to illness can be caused by a number of factors including an improper PH level, transportation to the store or to your home and the wrong tank temperature. Salinity, oxygen and ammonia levels should also be at an optimum level.

Caring for saltwater fish isn’t all that difficult when you have a bit of knowledge. Knowing ‘disease signs’ and understanding how to create an appropriate aquarium environment are two crucial factors in prolonging the enjoyment of your wonderful fish.

You can find out much more about caring for your saltwater fish with our ebook, The Beginners Guide to Saltwater Aquariums.

Unfortunately, these coral reefs can’t seem to rejuvenate at the same pace that they are being destroyed, resulting in negative effects on our fish population and the environment. A way of helping is in the harvesting of live coral.

In the wild, concrete molds can actually imitate natural coral reefs.  Obviously, if a substance is going to take the place of a coral reef, it would have to be strong enough to be structurally stable, both on the ocean floor and in extraordinary circumstances, such as a strong storm or hurricane. 

Marine growth is actually enhanced by the fairly rough texture of concrete. Also, the construction of many entrances is, of course, possible in creating a mold from this material that mimics natural coral reef. Happily, this type of concrete structure, on a much smaller level, can also be a reality in domestic aquariums.

Crushed shells, crushed coral, sand and cement are all crucial ingredients and part of the mix that create rock structures implemented in domestic aquariums. Part of the process of creating your own structures includes wetting sand to mold it into a desired shape. This shape can be sprinkle crushed coral, dry oyster, Puka shells. Eventually, the rock mixture is added, along with more decorative shells and dry sand.  After a twenty-four hour drying period, the loose sand is dusted off, and your structure is ready.

pH levels in aquariums can be set to dangerous levels by introducing uncured cement structures into your aquarium. The solution is to cure the cement (obviously). It is highly advisable to keep curing the rock until it has a stable pH level. A normal amount of time for this process is about six to eight weeks.

The process of curing can be done by submerging your structure in tap water. This water should be changed a couple of times a week. In the ‘real world’, this curing process occurs naturally in the sea. At home, a simple pH test over time will be able to inform you when the rock structure is ready to be introduced into your aquarium.

After about five weeks, drain the tap water that surrounds your structure into a separate container and measure its pH level. After recording this data, refill your original container (containing the rock structure) with fresh tap water and wait another week. Then read the pH level again by draining the tap water and measuring it. If both pH levels are the same, this is a signal that your structure is ready for your aquarium.

Natural live coral is preserved in the above process and beauty is further established in your tank by the introduction of these lovely homemade rock structures. Have fun.

Saltwater aquariums seem complex in terms of setup and maintenance, but they’re not, especially when considering the advancement in aquarium construction and related equipment over the past thirty years or so.

Let’s assume that you’ve picked out a great tank and all the related equipment (with the aid of a trusted pet store technician). Make sure to clean out your tank at home, even if it’s brand new. However, don’t use soap. Just rinse your empty aquarium out with a garden hose, as any soap residue can be extremely damaging to future fish and other species.

An initial step is placing your undergravel filter into your tank, followed by substrate material overtop of the filter. In freshwater aquariums, this substrate material comes in the form of coated rocks or colored gravel. Substrates in saltwater environments include natural coral sand, oyster shell, limestone and dolomite.

Although an undergravel filter is an awesome choice for your saltwater aquarium, you can’t combine it with a sand substrate, as the sand is fine and will clog your filter. Choose either the undergravel filter or the sand… not both. 

When filling your tank about a third of the way with water, do so carefully without disturbing the filter bed. Also, try not to get any substrate underneath the filter plate. Larger rock and coral can go in next, before filling up the tank about half way to the top.

Tap water has to be treated, as it can contain several toxins like copper or chlorine that are harmful to saltwater fish.  The solution to this problem involves a high-quality water conditioner applied to the tap water before mixing in the sea salts.  Thus, metallic ions are rendered nontoxic through this effective process. 

Check your store for some sea salts that already contain water conditioners. This will save you one step in your purification and treatment process. Once your water is treated, add it to your aquarium so that the water level is just a few inches from the top.

An outside filter (in addition to the undergravel one) and a heater are other necessities in your tank. Remember that your inhabitants are only comfortable within a certain temperature range, controlled by a reliable heater.  Other equipment requirements include an air diffuser, a protein skimmer and a florescent light hood.

A proper temperature range and sea salt dissolving process is usually achieved in a tank within twenty four hours, provided you have a properly running filter and heating system.

Tank size is important. Twenty gallons is usually considered a safe minimum. Although there are many ratios that you could use to calculate the amount of fish that can fit into your selected tank, an inch of fish usually accommodates three to five gallons.

A good filtration system, a heater and a hydrometer are all important. Your heater and thermometer will ideally maintain the recommended temperature of 78-80 degrees for tropical fish. Your hydrometer will measure the salt content of the water in your aquarium.

Once you’ve established the water in your aquarium, using de-chlorination, proper heating, and correct salt level, you should remember to bring in a water sample for the store to test. A bacteria culture is essential for cycling the aquarium. Bacteria most certainly can be added once the aquarium has been prepared.

An amazing starter fish, full or hardiness s and strength, is a damselfish.  Some species include: the domino damselfish, the blue chromis and the anemonefishes (also known as clownfishes).  These species are inexpensive, attractive looking, not finicky about food, and they have longevity!

The only problem with the above species is that they are very territorial and aggressive towards unrelated species. It doesn’t really matter if the other species are bigger than they are. They’ll attack, so be careful that you place damselfish in an appropriate environment.

Mini-reefs are something for more experienced hobbyists to consider, but beginners should avoid them. The problem lies in their lack of hardiness, and they require a lot of maintenance and know-how.

On a sadder note, do keep in mind that reef fish and coral are caught in the wild. The reality is that coral reefs are being harmed frequently by bad weather and stress. This is horrific news, considering wild coral structures contain about twenty five percent the planet’s marine life.

As a pet owner, it’s important to be aware that, although wild marine life is still quite plentiful, harvesting may soon begin to play a role in the destruction of coral reefs (if it hasn’t already).

Environmental awareness goes hand in hand with responsible aquarium ownership. Have fun with your new and exciting hobby.

Diatoms are the brown algae, which are tolerant of various types of water conditions and need only a bit of light. With increased daily light (say eight to ten hours) and the correct light intensity, green algae begin to form and replace diatoms. This formation is usually seen in a few weeks in the rock and coral closest to the correct light source.

Other types of algae species that are both attractive and hardy include: Macroalga, Caulerpa, Penicillus, Udotea and Halimeda.

Macroalgea require a lot of light, especially when they are first placed into an aquarium. It’s not unusual to give them a light source at this initiation stage for a full forty eight hours.  This type of algae, like fish and invertebrates, needs good filtration, water quality and water circulation. Nutrients and trace elements must also be present in your tank’s water in order for this species to thrive.

Caulerpa tend to be the easiest algae to grow.  Keep in mind that invertebrates and herbivorous fish love this stuff, so you may not be able to effectively grow it with those species in your aquarium. Once this type of algae is established in your tank, you may have to conscientiously harvest it as it grows fairly rapidly.

Udotea, Halimeda and Penicillus are categorized as calcareous algae. Calcium gives these algae rigidity which protects them from being eaten by herbivorous fish.  These algae also tend to grow slower than Caulerpa.

Interestingly enough, one of the parameters that your water needs is calcium. If you’re having problems growing Udotea, Halimeda and Penicillus, then this may mean that your water is in need of more calcium.

Properly monitored algae are extremely important in maintaining balance and aesthetic beauty in a fish tank. Happy harvesting!

One of the first things to consider is the size of your potential tank. Here’s an important fact: These aquariums can weigh a ton. I mean that literally. A two hundred gallon tank, filled with water, equipment and gravel weighs about two thousand pounds. Now, if you live on the second floor of an older building, you must make sure that the structural integrity of the floor is able to support that kind of weight.

Pet stores supply all types and sizes of fish tanks, usually up to and including the 180 gallon size. Beyond that, you will have to customize your own aquarium, either using acrylic or glass as your main material. Acrylic weighs less and is usually the way to go, but be cautioned that it does scratch easier.

Your tank should ideally be twice as long as its depth and the height, with the measurements of the height and the depth being about equal.  Shallow tanks look great, while deeper tanks offer more water capacity. The latter, however, can be a bit of a pain to clean.

Aeration and cleanliness are crucial to the success of your aquarium and its inhabitants. This means that your filter has to be absolutely ideal for the type of tank that you are purchasing.  Invertebrates and marine fish do not cope with stress as well as freshwater fish and need proper filtration including biological, mechanical and chemical. Let’s look at these systems one at a time.

Biological filtration involves the use of specific types of bacteria that detoxify toxic nitrogen compounds in the water, reducing them to less harmful compounds. Mechanical filtration simply removes particles from your aquarium water. Chemical filtration hones in on dissolved organic compounds and removes them from your tank’s water.

If you like, you can have a bunch of filters at the back of your tank performing all of the above tasks. If, however, you are looking for another option, it is possible to order your tank to be “reef ready”.  A reef ready system comes equipped with an overflow box and a bunch of predrilled holes. Filtration takes place by the process of your aquarium water being pumped into a sump tank. The resulting clean water is then is then channeled back into your aquarium.  In this type of system, heaters and filters are placed out of the sight of your aquarium’s inhabitants. You also save space, as the filters that are placed at the back of your tank (in other filtration systems) are no loner there, thus enabling you to push your tank more towards the wall.

These systems are awesome in supporting all life including algae, coral and fish. The only drawback is the expense. Explore prices in a trusted store and see what type of filtration system is realistic for you.

The trick in getting started is to pick species that are hearty. The last thing that you want is a group of temperamental fishes in a brand new aquarium tank. In addition to researching different species of fish, a technical support staff member in a reputable fish store is a valuable assistant in helping with your first hearty fish purchases.

So how many fish should you keep in your saltwater aquarium? Perhaps a better question is: What specifications determine the amount of fish that you can keep in my tank?  The weight of the marine animal, the type of substrate, the water temperature, and various water quality parameters all factor in.  However, in simple terms, here’s a rule of thumb: two inches of animal for every ten gallons of water.  For example, a twenty gallon tank can hold no more than two to three fish about two to three inches in size.

Can’t fish all just get along? No! Some are rather playful, and others are very territorial and challenging.  Coral reef fishes tend to be more territorial. This behavior is magnified when these fishes are in closer confinement in a fish tank.  Once again, knowing your species and their behavioral characteristics is gold. Often, the amount of a particular species that you purchase depends on the skill at which you provide boundaries and hiding spots in you aquarium. These are important in making for a compatible coexistence between particular species.

When you are finally at the point of purchasing a few fish, look for signs of ill health like labored breathing, sluggishness or difficulty in swimming.  Another sign to look for is good clarity in the eyes of a fish, rather than a cloudy look.  Reddened lesions and other ominous discolorations are also red flags.  The fins of the fish should also be clear and intact without frayed areas.  Frayed fins could be caused by a fight with another fish in the tank or a bacterial.

PH and temperature level should be closely monitored in the first few weeks of your functioning tank, or in the first few weeks after new fish purchases. Purchasing correct fish for your tank go hand in hand with his monitoring process, with the result being  aesthetically pleasing saltwater aquariums filled with fish that will give you much pleasure in your life.

Some pieces of equipment that need regular maintenance include under-gravel filters, as they often get clogged after a few months of use.  This clogging can also come from salt buildup.  A fine wire fished through the air tube often does the trick in unclogging the problematic area. Many also remove the tube and give it a warm water soaking in order to help dissolve unwanted blocks.

Outside filters should also be checked regularly for signs of diminished flow or blocks.  Heaters should also be checked constantly, as a drastic change in water temperature can most certainly have devastating results. Thankfully, slight water change temperatures can usually be tolerated.

PH, ammonia, salinity, and other level tests should be done quite often (many do this on a weekly basis).  As for water changes, different owners have varying schedules, ranging between weekly and monthly changes. Any less is too often (and too much work) while waiting more than a month is unhealthy, as various organic and inorganic compounds can accumulate in the water over that time period.

Consequences in not having regular water changes include an increase in nitrate, concentration of phosphate, organic compounds and a decrease in the buffering capacity, in PH, and in many trace elements that are needed by marine organisms (especially invertebrates).

Distilled water changes should be part of your weekly schedule for evaporated water. You could use tap water, but the hardness of the water might not be the best, chemically, for your fish tank. Regardless of the water that you use, always use some sort of water conditioner before allowing new water into your aquarium.

Salt in salt water tends to accumulate. Be aware of this accumulation on the surface of your aquarium and make sure to get rid of it on a weekly basis. Warm water is a good remedy for cleaning in a removable lid or cover. Algae scrapers and sponges are a safe bet for cleaning those areas in your tank that a susceptible algae buildup.  As for the filter bed, there are special siphon cleaners to clean this type of surface.

Little steps go a long way. Although the above seems like a lot of fuss, it becomes routine very quickly and does not feel like a burden once it is habit. The benefits of being organized help you in having a clean, aesthetically pleasing and disease free fish tank.

Damsels are awesome.  They love reefs and eat most types of food.  The most popular Damsel fish is the yellowtail.  These peaceful fish resist disease well.  Having said that, the more aggressive fish to be wary of include Black and White and Domino Damsels; they’re bigger and they often eat other damsels.

Other desirable fish include Pseudochromis fish.  Different types of species or varieties include the Fridmani and Diadema.  However, with this type of fish, a larger tank (perhaps 40 gallons) is the route to take as a means of counteracting these fishes’ aggressive tendencies.

Who could not like a clownfish?  Perhaps a person that doesn’t like clowns has a disliking towards these species. However, they do make excellent beginner fish for smaller aquariums as well as larger reefs.  Some types include the Percula, the Ocellaris and the Sebae.  The Oscellaris and the Perculas are happier when purchased in pairs.  All anemone fish, including the clownfish, can change sex as they are born with active male and dormant female reproductive organs.
 
Cave dwellers include Royal Grammas.  They are territorial to their own kind and to Pseudochromis.  It is recommended to house only one per tank with plenty of rocks to for them to hide in.  They really love to hide, so create plenty of secluded places for them, even in big aquariums and especially if you’re purchasing more than one.

Two additional fish that look alike include the Yellow Tang and the Regal Blue Tang.  The Yellow Tang normally gets along well with other fish close to their size but, they cannot be kept with other Yellow Tangs.  The only exception would be if you have lots of them housed together.  Similarly, the Regal Blue Tang doesn’t like similarly sized tangs but thrive in groups in larger tanks.  Forty plus gallon aquariums are awesome for these reef fish.

Koran Angelfish are tough, but they need huge tanks (we’re talking larger the 75 gallons).  They are also aggressive and can eat most soft corals. In other words, they can’t be kept in the vicinity of a reef.
 
The Spanish Hogfish cannot be kept with corals as well, but solely with fish. These fish like to be active and do not know the meaning of fear, when it comes to dealing with other species in your tank.

As you can see, for saltwater aquariums, the above listed fishes are all good, hearty species, each with their own requirements. Combining wisely can best be done with research and good store technical support, especially when considering compatibility with invertebrates, live rock and plants.  Research well and ask question.